Could the grass really be greener in this village of just 200 souls tucked away in Basse-Navarre? In search of a more deeply rooted way of cooking, chef Anthony Orjollet (who used to work at the now-closed Epoq in Biarritz and Elements in Bidart) has left the coast behind for good to rekindle the fire in a light-filled stone, timber and glass outbuilding. Here, he continues his quietly radical mission: low-impact cooking with deep roots, serving daily helpings of rustic, terroir-first fare (fish from Capbreton, beef from Saint-Gladie, vegetables from Larceveau) alongside more than 400 low-intervention wines. Beyond the unpretentious, no-filter philosophy, one thing’s for sure: Orjollet hasn’t lost his touch – or his appetite for hard work. · Augustin Marie

Ate: A knockout horse mackerel crudo with cucumber ribbons, wild garlic, lacto-fermented tomato water and a Grand Roux corn fritter; unforgettable beef cheeks with parsley, Duchess potatoes, Kintoa pork pancetta and a complex jus; and a superb craquelin cream puff with sweet clover mousse and hazelnut praline ice cream.

Price: Set menus €23 (lunch) and €26 (dinner), à la carte €31–€58.