Nuance

In the Petit Bayonne neighborhood, L’Inattendu gave way to a more Nuance(d) approach by Brice Goeuriot and Margaux Le Baillif, two École Ferrandi alums who honed their skills at Choko Ona in Espelette, and who are currently making the local Basquitude vibrate with their first-rate techniques and creative compositions. The space? It’s warm and welcoming while still feeling refined: exposed stone walls, white marble, Brotherwood furniture, a patterned tile bar, wallpaper designed by Laur Meyrieux… all orchestrated by Le Vivier architecture studio. As for the carte blanche menu prepared by the duo: an incredible quiche Lorraine-style tartlet made with braised cos lettuce, slices of smoked bacon, lardons, nasturtium jus, plus a siphoned Mornay sauce and pork jus; delicate scallops from the Normandy coast, in their sauce and surrounded by clams, brown butter squash purée and spaghetti squash marinated in a mix of marigold oil and finger lime; before a breathtaking roasted pigeon with a reduction, pigeon thigh parmentier, potato pancakes and grapes deglazed in Joko – a wine fortified with cider brandy from the Domaine Bordatto. To finish the meal? A refreshing thin apple tart with an apple compote and raw cream layer, plus lemon balm sorbet. // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine list that is mostly clean, composed by Alexis Marcoux: Les Escures, a Cahors from Fabien Jouves (€8.50 a glass), Uda, a Basque rosé from the Domaine Apatia (€29 a bottle), Xut, an Irouléguy blanc from the Domaine Etxondoa (€57)… 
PRICE: : Set menus €49 (four courses) and €69 (six courses).