Behind the Bayonne cathedral, in the old commercial court with its monumental glass ceiling, the Biarritz-based architect Delphine Carrère gave a modern makeover to this big, chic café run by Sarah and Fabian Feldmann (the duo behind L’Impertinent in Biarritz). That’s where the indomitable (basa in Basque) Bavarian chef celebrates organic, local produce in his revisited, cheeky cuisine. The day we went, the €23 menu featured all of the following: delightful calf’s head from the Belaun co-op in Aldudes, with sauce gribiche, a vinegary cider and potatoes from Arbonne; incredible meagre from Saint-Jean-de-Luz cooked over the embers, swimming in a tomato, chili and miso broth, with haricots verts and fennel blossoms; before some sweet and juicy strawberries with a verbena-infused cream and a muscovado sugar arlette biscuit. In the afternoon, make way for small plates (Ibaiama ham, homemade boudin, guindilla peppers, local cheeses…), ice creams and pastries, and on Sundays, for the brunch that’s centered around a good roasted chicken or fish from the Saint-Jean market. // G.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? A natural wine list crafted by Alexia Barbier (ex-Tour d’Argent and Jules Verne in Paris): Interval 106, a surprising Slovakian white from the Slobodne Winery (€7 a glass), an Irouléguy white from the Domaine Bordaxuria (€36 a bottle), Tu vin plus aux soirées, a Cahors red from Fabien Jouves (€27), Pinte Bien, a Poulsard from the Domaine de la Pinte (€29)…
PRICE: Menus €19-23 (lunch), à la carte €37-55, tapas €3-18, ice cream €8.50, brunch €25 (Sunday), kids’ menu €18.