Cochonnaille love you

Restaurant Harakina (Bayonne)

© Séverine Santucci

  • Date
  • share

Take a trio of friends (Séverine Santucci, a first-rate chef who trained at the École Ferrandi, Paul Crespin, a former finance guy who switched careers to work in butchery and charcuterie, and Mathieu Lapios, a wine lover passionate about low-intervention producers); place them under the arches of the Vieux Bayonne neighborhood in a dive from the 1950s (black and white checkerboard tile floors, an ornate wood bar, a glass ceiling); and you’ll get Harakina (“butcher” in Basque), a porky bistro where the star of the show is the Kintoa pork from the Landaia farm. The resulting dishes are straightforward, cooked in tandem with the British chef Alex Mahood (ex-Jones in Paris), who is backing up Séverine in the kitchen for a time. What did ours look like, the day we went? A few crispy panko-covered croquettes stuffed with trout from the Pyrenees, béchamel sauce, lemon and dill, then some hearty Kintoa caillettes stuffed with a mix of ground pork, apricots and pistachios, flash-seared and then cooked in the oven, enrobed in a divine onion jus and served with Robuchon-style potato purée… But the deviled eggs, massive pork chop and chocolate cake with crème fraîche would get the job done right too! // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A dozen living wines (La Combe des Avaux, a Côtes-du-Rhône red at €5.50 a glass, Timéo, a Roussillon Grenache at €23.50 a bottle, Fins Als Kullons, a Catalan Clairet at €40 a litre…), along with lager on tap (€2.50 for 250 ml). 
PRICE: : Plates €4-28. 

The very first Le Fooding Belgium guide!

Le Fooding’s brand-new, unique and totally collector-worthy Belgium guide is a gold mine of hot spots, featuring 400 addresses scattered across Wallonia, Flanders and Brussels. Over the magazine’s 164 pages, you’ll discover a slew of new establishments, like the latest hard cider bar worth checking out, alongside well-established institutions, including a tavern opened 250 years ago, plus seven saucy long-form articles, all of which are illustrated by the crème de la crème of Belgian artists…

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.