La Table / Sébastien Gravé
The best deal on the banks of the Nive River? The lunch set menu at the newly named La Table de Sébastien Gravé, formerly Table de Pottoka! In the luminous dining room with blue tones, the Hazpandar chef, who used to work at the Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz and Les Fables de la Fontaine in Paris, stuns with his confident dishes. The day we went for lunch (€21), the iodine aromas of a white Maree de Mandonnabruna Pecorino (€4.50 a glass) were in perfect harmony with the tasty mackerel escabèche sprinkled with feta, over a bed of diced cucumber, plus a quinoa-peanut tuile, horseradish ice cream and squid ink mayo; and a lovely line-caught hake in an almond crust atop a mix of cuttlefish, clams and peas, pulverized by an emulsion of organic fresh herbs from La Vallée des Deux Sources (Gers); before kiwi from Adour, an Orelys cream (blonde chocolate that tastes like licorice), grilled corn ice cream and a sesame tuile (€11). To drink, there are straightforward regional wines: a Bergerac Tour des Gendres (€30), Irouléguy from Ameztia (€37), etc. Set menus €21-26 (weekday lunch), menus €39-50, à la carte €47. // P.L.