Finally, they made it! After crossing paths in the kitchens of the Grand Hôtel and sharpening their knives around the region (Le Charabia, Le Cent 33), Alsace-born Camille Dupraz and La Rochelle native Pierre-Rémi Blanc – partners in life and in the kitchen – have been steering La Rémoulade since summer 2023. The result is a bistro with a resolutely confident atmosphere, doodley artwork (@horihanne), warming honey-toned wood, subtle Alsatian nods and a tucked-away back terrace that’s quickly won over the neighborhood and beyond. So too have the joyfully retro dishes: delicious Duroc ham with fried Padrón peppers; a plate of cucumber and Cantabrian anchovies slicked with creamy vitello sauce; seared tuna loin jolted with Nordic-style remoulade (carrot, celery, onion, mayo); juicy polpette with chanterelles atop silky potato mousseline; pearly line-caught hake withs panisses bound by a bisque mayonnaise; crisp-skinned confit duck leg with (yes, more) mousseline and yellow and green beans; and a decadently creamy vanilla pot with Landes kiwi and rosehip jam. We’re full – and still wanting more! · Marie Madeleine

FEELING THIRSTY? Around twenty or so Alsace-centric bottles, including a pinot noir or resiling from Tempé-Jessel (€5 a glass, €27 a bottle), plus Bordeaux cameos like a red Sauve Qui Peut from Laurent Cassy (€24). Alternatives include organic sparkling rooibos grape juice from winemaker Pauline Lapierre (€5.50) and Météor IPA (€4 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Set menu €39, à la carte €40-46.