Auberge de Chassignolles
Along a remote stretch of the Haut-Livradois, you’ll find a village with a mere 66 souls, a small square, a charming Roman church and an old-fashioned inn where Her Majesty’s flag waves in the wind! Running the show is Brit Peter Taylor (Bar Buvette at the Bristol) who entrusts the kitchen to a new chef every year. For the 2018 season, it’s the New Zealander Mike Hazlewood’s turn (ex-Antidote Wine Bar in London) to honor the house’s commitment to local, organic fare (vegetables from the garden and the market in Brioude, pork from the Ferme de Lafont in Cunlhat, etc.) on the striking €26.50 menu. The night we went, served on gingham tablecloths inside, we were licking our lips over the delicious cucumbers dressed in cream with basil, dill and tarragon; lovely eggplant stuffed with rice, anchovy butter, garlic, parsley, chives and tomato coulis; roasted pork with potatoes confit and sautéed onions; before an incredible rhubarb crumble! To go with it all, there are some chemical-free wines: Chatons de Garde, a Syrah from Andrea Calek (€7 a glass), a rare oxidative Chardonnay from Stéphan Elzière (€51 a bottle), Nullepart-Cedex, a Gamay from Aurélien Lefort (€65)… Or even a Loirette beer from La Pigeonelle (€3.50 for 330 ml). Menus €18 (lunch except Sunday) and €26.50 (dinner and Sunday lunch). Rooms for rent starting at €55 a night. // P.L.