Café Lai'Tcha

Café Lai'Tcha (Paris)

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Adeline Grattard, Meilleure cuisinière Guide 2010

Adeline Grattard is whipping up her Café Lai’Tcha! In the far-reaching annex of the very fine dining establishment Yam’Tcha, the talented chef makes an appearance every Tuesday night, preparing gravity defying dinners at grounded prices. The Tuesday night we went, for €60 (much like the original Yam’Tcha!), we savored a tasting menu that went off like fireworks in a cathedral-like space with plenty of wood, brick and concrete: an incredible eggplant-shrimp spring roll with strips of cucumber and sesame seeds; cheeky pan-fried foie gras with porcini, haricots verts and figs; a delightful translucent noodle soup with spellbinding Basque pork and mussels; shrimp siu mai topped with trout roe, as beautiful as little jewels; before sticky rice dough balls stuffed with whipped cream and fresh raspberries for the finale! And because good news often comes in pairs, soon there’s going to be a Lai’Tcha wonton bar open from noon to 7pm, featuring their delicious shrimp dumplings served in chicken broth with lots of coriander or paired with an incredible Sichuan dipping sauce.  // Julie Gerbet and François Phan

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s lai’tcha (tea with sweetened condensed milk, €6), of course! Along with marvelous infused waters sourced with care by Chi Wah (€6), plus some joyful wines: a Languedoc white from Mylène Bru or a Loire red from Mosse (€8 a glass), a Sancerre white from Paul Prieur or a Collines-Rhodaniennes red from the Domaine Jamet (€35 a bottle).

PRICE: Menus €50 (except Tuesday night) and €60 (Tuesday night). Wonton set menus €20-25 (from Wednesday to Saturday). À la carte €33-45.

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