After some very high gastronomy and bao buns that’ll drive you bonkers with delight, Adeline Grattard, the imperial chef, and Chi Wah Chan, aka Mister Tea, are taking their impetuous style to the other side of the city. In the former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, their inspired version of China has taken the name “lai’Tcha” (which literally means “morning café”). The elongated dining room feels like a cross between a cathedral and the Great Wall, decorated with bricks, straw and rammed clay. Their third location (after yam’Tcha and their shop on rue Sauval) has two modes: stand around the raw concrete and Lebanese cedar bar, while nibbling on fresh spring rolls (€8), tender beef cheeks with sweet potatoes packing a punch from a Sichuan seasoning (€12), and some stunning cookies for dessert; or take a seat around the wild cherry wood tables at the back of the room, and dig into tapas, such as a glistening salad of shiitake, shiemji and button mushrooms (€8), sweet & sour pineapple pork (€10), shrimp and wheat noodle laksa in a lively velvet crab and shrimp broth (€14), then slivers of mango atop sticky rice for dessert (€8). To drink, there are some divine teas (oolong, lai cha, €6) and fresh hops – a fine Alsace Perle blonde or a curvy rhubarb Rhub’IPA for €8. Set menus €15-20 (to go). Prix-fixe menu €40. À la carte €35-45. // M.J.-D.