An urban inn located a mere stone’s throw from the Boulevard de la Villette with a big sunny terrace where you can savor traditional dishes that have been given a twist by owner Alessandro Candido, backed up by Camille Guillaud with the wines. The night we went, the menu featured all of the following: a mortadella plate to kick things off; followed by the appetizer, a Parmesan shortbread tarte topped with Burgundy escargots and gremolata; some excellent broccoli grilled over binchotan charcoal, glazed in anchovy butter and aged Parmesan. What came next felt a little more classic, but still masterful: a green risotto with asparagus from the Hérault department and truffles; grilled trout from the Pyrénées with a Dugléré sauce, new potatoes and peas. To round out the meal, there was warm brioche stuffed with pistachio ice cream, all covered in amarena cherries. And we’ll be back a future Wednesday at lunch for the roast chicken with curried fries. // Zoé Deray
FEELING THIRSTY? A well-stocked natural wine list featuring options like Pinot Point 2021 produced by Amandine and Quentin Javoy (€7 a glass); international skin-contact wines like the Catalan CX 2020 (€45 a bottle); and all kinds of sparkling options like the Portuguese Moscatel Galego (€39), fine Normandy hard cider (€29), or Burgundy Pale Ale (€36)…
PRICE: Set menus €25 (lunch), appetizers €11-15, mains €25-30, desserts €7-14.
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