After gallivanting about the Middle East, transalpine chef Alessandro Candido (ex-Cave de l’Insolite) has opened up a brazen Parisian spot with Camille Guillaud – a former brand manager for Deliveroo! In their den rigged out like a rustic inn (tomette tile floors, thrifted light fixtures, carved wood tables), the sacred fire flutters at the heart of a bewitching rotisserie, where carefully sourced beautiful cuts of meat bronze up. For us, the other night: epic porcini from the Perche region with gremolata and croutons under a slice of bacon; roasted squash splashed with a lovely herring cream and flaxseed chips; a simple dish of clams with lemon and marigold anointed with olive oil from the Candido family; spit-roasted porc noir from Biscay, with beets moistened by the meat drippings; chicken from the Aisne cooked to perfection with vegetables covered in meat drippings as well; and for the scrumptious dessert, a brioche nestled up against a scoop of chocolate-hazelnut ice cream. During the week, there’s an excellent lunch menu featuring, for example, squash and herring soup, Breton bonito with roasted leeks, andBarbarie fig sorbet. Even more good news: Candide also has a wine bar with high-top tables at 37 Boulevard de la Villette, serving sandwiches at lunch and snacks at night – porcini carpaccio, stracciatella with bottarga, deviled eggs… // Aïtor Alfonso
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a zero-headache wine list composed by Gaëlle Bardout: a sparkling Tridentine wine from Cantina Furlani (€7 a glass), a candid white Apulia produced by Progetto Calcarius (€40 a bottle), a Roussillon Mourvèdre from Zulu Wine (€44)…
PRICE: Set menus €17-20 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-43 (dinner).