Carøe (Biarritz)

© Carøe

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Just a stone’s throw from the Place du Port-Vieux, this tiny spot run by Joséphine Cordeil and the culinary Viking Florian Cordeil lures in stylish locals and hostages for an evening, captured of their own free will. With a Posca tag on the turquoise tiled wall, the menu navigates you through the delights coming out of the open kitchen: a bright, peppery octopus taco, served with celery chips instead of tortilla chips; velvety Albacore tuna confit with a creamy aioli; magical chanterelle mushrooms immersed in a red miso sabayon; phenomenal glazed trout… So many high voltage shocks to the system, down to the moist corn cake with toasted hazelnut caramel – a damn delicious dessert! The risalamande (Nordic rice pudding made with whipped cream) also maintains its reputation as a helluva dessert… The house also offers up grilled whole fish (lobster, turbot, brill), depending on what’s fresh. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Lots of natural bottles below deck: a Tarn Mauzac from Plageoles (€5.50 a glass), a Chinon red from Philippe Alliet (€38 a bottle), a Saint-Péray from François Villard (€41 a bottle)…

PRICE: Plates €8-20, desserts €8-10. Whole fish sold by weight.

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