Epoq (Biarritz)

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After launching his incredible bistro Elements into orbit somewhere near Bidart, the free-wheeling chef Anthony Orjollet has struck again, this time in the center of Biarritz in a big loft that’s almost too sleek: a plant wall under the glass ceiling, string lights, golden suspension lamps, a mezzanine patio…. Co-authored by the uber-Iberian David Gonzalez (ex-Carøe), the locavore menu really shines. The day we went for lunch: addictive Getaria smoked anchovy toasts; a stunning line-caught tuna belly from Saint-Jean-de-Luz with notes of beef, under a txakoli espuma (a Basque white wine made with green grapes); smoking hot bao buns filled with pork and vegetables marinated in basa gede (a Balinese curry paste); earthy braised Sasi Ardimutton ribs, cabbage that’s been carefully charred using mezcal and kombucha as fuel; before a nice hazelnut crust tartlet topped with lemon ganache and a white chocolate shell. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? A naturopath wine list: Cuvée Elements, an Alsace white from Paul Ginglinger; Cortado, a Côtes-Catalanes from the Domaine de Majas (both at €6 a glass); a Roussillon pet’ nat’ from Benoit Arletaz (€29 a bottle); a Sancerre white from Vincent Gaudry (€42); a Mâcon Gamay from Julien Guillot (€60)…

PRICE: Plates €12-27, desserts €8-9.

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