With its black tiling and a bar fashioned out of exotic wood, this miniature space feels a bit like a private club. And inside, Takuya Watanabe, aka the Grand Master of Fish, plays a mixtape of salty beats for 12 lucky guests at every service. Take the day we went for lunch, when the menu’s tracklist included some supersonic and funky fresh mouthfuls (€95): brilliant mussels in broth with added depth from sake; bass sashimi in a white soy sauce, along with satiny cuttlefish and red mullet seared over binchotan charcoal; orphic abalone risotto with vinegar; unadulterated red mullet tempura; lobster with flavorful salmon roe; not to mention the spectacular final touch – the skillfully crafted sushi: iridescent sardines, spellbinding herring, incredible tuna, jack mackerel that packs a punch, or knockout greater amberjack, intensified by homemade pickled ginger in between bites (“Never at the same time!” warns chef Nina Nikkhou). All that before the understated finale, a blancmange with sesame seeds and black grapes. To drink, there’s genmaicha tea (€6.50) or classy sakes – like the Mizuho Kuromatsu (€12 for 90 ml) or the Hiroki (€19 for 90 ml). Menus €95 (lunch), €145 and €195. // A.A.