Deep blue and black earthenware walls, a chestnut bar…. Takuya Watanabe takes center stage at this little tasting theater with discreet luxuries, directing a beautiful silent ballet for 12 enlightened sushi lovers. Served by the gracious Nina Nikkhou, the lunch menu (€95) is filled with judiciously crafted flavors: a very fresh warmup via bluefin tuna sashimi, silky monkfish liver rillettes sprinkled with chopped chives, and a splendid lobster tartare prepared fresh, with its roe and green asparagus; then seven delectable preparations of tender cuttlefish, mullet, tuna, akami, mackerel, trout and ōtoro, each served on a little bed of warm rice (37°C), delicately seasoned with vinegar; before an umami-esque lobster dashi and cauliflower in white miso. And for the royal finale, don’t miss the stunning Brillat-Savarin cream paired with an apple jelly and miso mascarpone. To drink, there’s an intoxicating sake menu (including a staggering Junmai Kozaemon for €7.50 a glass, from amongst 30 others served hot or cold) and an exceptional roasted genmaicha tea (€6.60). Menus €95 (lunch), €145 and €195. // C.L.H.