Japanese orthodoxy is respected to the latter at this restaurant with tatami mats and a hinoki wood bar, where the two chefs Yoichi Kino (ex-Comme des Poissons in the 16th) and Ryuma Takubo (ex-Yuzu An in Fukuoka) work with art and precision. The voyage through shôjin kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine served in small portions) can begin in omakase mode (which literally means “get back to cooking”). The day we went for lunch: fatty tuna with chives and fermented radish; umami-esque eggplant prepared two ways – pan-fried with black miso and baked with white miso; an incredible trio of salmon in a black sesame cream sauce, shrimp with soy cream, and a prawn tempura with cream of white sesame; plus, and best of all, the incredible sushi, like the perfectly fatty tuna or the salty eel. The drink selection is up to par with the rest: a white Bourgogne from Etienne Sauzet for €38 a bottle, or a Pernand-Vergellesses 1er cru from the Domaine de Montille for €69, and for a little treat, there’s a Pauillac 2005 from the Château Pontet-Canet for €252. Or you can opt for one of the smart sakes, like the creamy and fruity Nabeshima (€17 for 180 ml) or the drier Momo no Shizuku (€12 for 180 ml). Kampai! Donburi, sushi or sashimi menus €18-30 (lunch and dinner), omakase €60 (lunch) and €120 (dinner). // C.C.