Komatsubaki

Once you’ve stepped through the door with “Komatsubaki” inscribed in calligraphy on it, take the stairs across from lobby and head straight into Japanese territory! This is where Yoichi Kino (the former chef of Comme des Poissons) and his sous-chef Ryuma Takubo practice the art of kaiseki (a traditional meal served in multiple small courses) in a sleek space designed by architect Ryuichi Nakamura (a hinoki wood bar for 12 guests, and a private lounge with tatami mats). The other night, the omakase menu (“I’ll leave it up to you”) featured a bass tartare topped with gold leaf, delicate shiso tempura and yuzu jus; langoustine with fried eggplant and chanterelle mushrooms in a delicious bonito dashi; a trio of bass, fatty tuna and bluefin tuna sashimi served with a ginger flower and shiso; a seasonal plate that reads like a haiku, composed of a surprising combination of potato and miso, tempura of fresh peas and edamame, two miniature skewers of herb and grain mochis, vibrant sea bream and salted plum sushi, and a fatty tuna tartare with wasabi and chives… Before a dozen extremely precise nigiri, including a silky duo of bluefin and fatty tuna, an electrifying scallop and yuzu combo, a lightly flame-charred aburi-style salmon, ikura (salmon roe) over a bed of perfectly pearly rice seasoned with toasted sesame seeds, comforting grilled eel with soy and mirin, sea bream with Japanese chili, amberjack sprinkled with bottarga… And finally, after an iconic fatty tuna, scallion and fresh shiso futomaki, a chic diptych for a gentle landing back on solid ground: tofu cream sprinkled with genmaicha, and ichigo daifuku, aka a fresh strawberry surrounded by azuki bean purée, all wrapped up in a sweet cloud of mochi. // Albertine Simonet
FEELING THIRSTY? Roasted tea (€3), a sharp selection of sakes including an generous and fruity daiginjyo (€40 for 180 ml) and a few wines with Fujiyama-esque prices – a Burgundy Aligoté from Benjamin Leroux (€15 a glass), a Puligny-Montrachet produced by Étienne Sauzet (€450 a bottle)…
PRICE: Tasting menu €130.