Designed by architect Nakamura Ryuichi, the décor at Komatsubaki (“Camelia horse” in Japanese) is like a trip to the archipelago with its full hinoki wood look, from the dining room to the bar, and even the tatami lounge! What’s more, the just as authentic omakase menus (the literal translation is “chef, I’m in your hands”) by Yoichi Kino and his sous-chef Ryuma Takubo are really incredible. The day we went for lunch: a woodland tsunami of mushrooms and chrysanthemum leaves, plus salmon roe for a little briny flavor; an incredible combo of fatty tuna tartare, miso-glazed grilled salmon, prawns in vinegar, sushi with a ginger flower, tender grilled eggplant, incredible Japanese chanterelle tempura and mochi; a stunning breaded scallop gratin cooked in its shell with a miso cream and zucchini; a wave of perfect, freshly made sushi served directly in your hand – bluefin tuna, fatty tuna, brill and yuzu, pollack, line-caught bass, mi-cuit salmon, sesame oil, marinated eel; a fatty tuna and shiso temaki romantically offered like a flower by the chef; before a silky Japanese version tiramisu with red beans, soy cream and matcha – a pure ippon knockout! // V.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a sharp selection of sakes, including the Nihonshu Bijoufu (€14 for 180 ml) or the more prestigious Nabeshima (€150 for a 720 ml bottle). Along with a few wines (€12 a glass), roasted tea (€3) and Asahi beer (€10 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Menus €22-60 (lunch), €120 (dinner).