You’d almost think you were in the South… of Italy! A newcomer to rue Bergère, the well-named Pastore (“berger” in French or “shepherd” in English) can be seen from far away thanks to its yellow façade. Tucked away behind it, you’ll find a chic, authentic trattoria (marble tables, 60s chairs, a giant mirror) where the Palermo-born chef Lorenzo Sciabica (ex-Osteria Ferrara) works as the clever capocuoco! After savoring some Sardinian olive oil, served à la carte the day we went for lunch: juicy heirloom tomatoes with beans, anchovies and ricotta infornata (cooked in the oven), as the very fresh appetizer that nonetheless lacked a little excitement; some incredible freshly made lobster spaghetti served al dente, that had us practically licking the plate clean; before strawberries with lemon-verbena sorbet and a timut pepper cream for the somewhat long-winded dessert by pastry chef Giuseppe Massimo. // A.H.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a 100% Italian wine collection concocted by Emma Hayes, who also used to work at Osteria Ferrara: a perfect San Fremo prosecco (€7 a glass) to start the meal, a red Dolcetto-di-Dogliani from Francesco Versio in Piedmont (€36 a bottle)…
PRICE: Set menu €21 (lunch), à la carte €39-51.