In his tiny cave à manger (a Polly Pocket-sized kitchen, a small bar, untreated wooden tables squeezed tightly together), the Normand chef Sébastien Leroy, a former set designer, offers up 120 wild labels of wine: Pinot noir from Valentin Morel in the Jura (€30 a bottle) or Chenin from the Domaine Vallée Moray (€6 a glass) to go with his extremely natural dishes. For the appetizers: Albacore tuna crudo covered in lightly smashed raspberries, and sprinkled with small garlic blossoms, or plump palourde clams in a generous cider broth. For the mains: tender steak with crisp peas and fresh red currants for some tanginess – preferable to the overly salty bonito steak…. And for dessert: creamy rice pudding with a few tangy oxalis leaves. To drink: Chenin blanc Domaine La Paonnerie (€6 a glass), Pinot gris from Rietsch (€26 a bottle) or Bordeaux Domaine Ormiade from Fabrice Domercq (€37). Corkage €10. À la carte €30-50. // I.B.