Sauvage

Restaurant Sauvage in ParisSauvage (Paris) - © Pauline Chatelan

From their tightly-packed munchbox (and natural wine bar!) at 60 rue du Cherche-Midi, the team from Sauvage has now crossed the street, invading La Marlotte at number 55. In the space of a few days, their flag was planted and the décor established: soft green for the façade, white paint to refresh the wrinkled rafters and customized plywood furniture to fill the tommette-tiled room that’s been rid of its Pompidou-inspired past. As for the cuisine, there’s no doubt about it, the short menu bears the royal seal of the laid-back owner, Leroy Sébastien, who’s backed up by brothers Timothy and Jonathan (ex-Agapé Substance, AT) Schweizer. Think high-born ingredients, broad strokes of flavor and a love of fruits and flowers! After starting with a bottle from Damien Millet (Beaujolais VDF, €42), away we go: tender duck hearts with wild garlic and radish (€11); melt-in-your-mouth Albacore tuna bites topped with raspberries and marigolds (€12); incredible foie gras topped with green zebra tomatoes and thin slices of pear (€17); silky veal tartare mixed with raw cauliflower and dried bonito (€14); perfect veal sweetbreads with cabbage and sweet clover blossoms (€32); and divine squid with tomatoes and peaches (€24). There were even more surprises on the sweet side of the menu, served the day we went with a refreshing pét’nat’ from Julien Guillot (€44), like the quartered oranges under a strange bitter squash mousse (€8). Plus, there’s a lovely recital of tapas at the bar next door: cervelle de canut cheese with carrots; tomato pork; mackerel with raspberries; fig leaf rice pudding… from €6-14. Or, across the street, a few dried meats and canned good. And FYI, the wine list runs deep: glasses of wine starting at €6, bottles starting at €27. À la carte €41-55. // Paul Henry-Bizon

Getting there

Restaurant Sauvage
55, rue du Cherche-Midi
Paris
(75006)
France
48.8486142
2.3250676
TEL: + 33 1 45 48 86 79
Subway: Sèvres - Babylone, Rennes, Saint-Placide, Vaneau