Since 2016, Julien Diaz (in the kitchen) and Guillaume Bonneaud (in the wine cellar) have been electrifying Marseille locals’ appetites in their minimalist den, which was given a makeover during the national lockdown: waxed concrete, blonde wood tables, flashy tableware… The night we went, the two accomplices glorified southern terroir on their balanced five-course menu (€65): a delicious cod brandade topped with pickled radish and pomegranate seeds; broccoli marinated in Corsican beer, surrounded by buckwheat seeds, cream of broccoli and glistening Corsican ham; a perfect fregola sarda with razor clams and sea purslane; perfectly cooked brill fillet paired with summer truffle, coco de Paimpol beans and pan-fried artichokes, all served in a delightful fish and bacon consommé; before a chocolate cake with a pear center and quarters of poached pear, which was a little mundane. // Antoine Antoine
FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful southern wines that Guillaume likes to let breathe before serving them to his clients (like the Rozeta, a magnum bottle of red Corbières produced by Maxime Magnon, at €9 a glass), or carefully chosen bottles (a splendid Jura Trousseau produced by Labet for €51) and independent Champagnes (a 2010 Minéral from Agrapart for €200 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €29-34 (lunch), à la carte €65-95.