Apart from the flash of gray in his beard, former Italian filmmaker Loic Sturani has little to do with a Japanese grandma, whose cuisine he nevertheless promises to serve at Tokidoki. The fact remains that he puts his heart and soul into serving Japan on a plate, come lunch and dinner. That evening, the menu at this mish-mash of an eatery (DIY wooden suspension lights, Japanese display cabinet, framed traditional fabrics) featured: sliced katsu-style celeriac and Bulldog sauce with added tomato powder, served with crunchy tricolor pickles and tender leek rolls, to be dipped in a creamy kimizu sauce – a sort of Japanese sabayon. What else? A plump donut floating in a white and dark chocolate sauce, painted like a smiley, plus caramelized pear. Boy, aren’t we spoilt at granny Loic’s! // Molly Kale

FEELING THIRSTY? : Many reasons to say kanpai, or even cheers: a Kubota Senjyu sake from the boss (€23 a carafe), Party Panda, a German pet’ nat’ from the Staffelter Hof estate (€32 a bottle) or a Golden IPA by Illegaal (€4 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Menus €15 and €23 (lunch), €22 and €35 (dinner), brunch €20 (Saturday).