Far from DIY decor and rehashed concepts, the crews behind Grabuge and Gratin (Ngan “Aurélie” Hin-Tieu and Pannawat “Alaang” Wichaiphum on operations, Scott Lhoest and Nicolas Cauwe handling the finances) have joined forces to launch a pan-Asian eatery in Saint-Gilles that bursts with high-energy, good-time vibes. In step with the odyssey-like spirit of the space, designed by Studio Cayelle, plastic stools and street-style signage have been swapped for a raw wood structure wrapped around a generous counter, plus steel-topped tables. As for the menu, it’s short and straight-talking, zeroing in on lesser-known Chinese specialties: roujiamo, a traditional sandwich baked fresh and served hot, stuffed with pork, beef, duck or oyster mushrooms, plus cucumber, crushed peanuts and hoisin sauce or gochujang; sea sum, sweet and sour fried shrimp and squid; or spicy dàndàn noodles with minced beef, spicy sesame sauce, carrot and red cabbage. Fast, furious and seriously well-made. · Carole Scarole

Feeling thirsty? Plenty to keep you going: pandan soy milk (€3.20), Yaya Kombucha (€5.80), classic Saigon beer (€4.50 for 330 ml), organic Grisette beer (€3.50 for 250 cml) or a nero d’avola sourced by Vineaste (€18 per bottle).

Price: Snacks €5-12, rou jia mo €10, mains €15-17, extras €2-3.