Another cock-and-pork story! Having barely finished fattening up his tonkotsu joints Tonton Ramen and Menkicchi, Makoto Saegusa is already back at it, this time doubling down with a ramen-ya devoted entirely to chicken. Spread over two floors (wood-paneled walls, pixelated tiles, Showa-era posters, red marble-topped tables), the game here is to dunk noodles into tori paitan, a gloriously fatty, collagen-rich broth that this former pro boxer coaxes from long-simmered chicken bones, reduced to a creamy emulsion and finished either with salt (shio), soy sauce (shoyu) or white miso. The evening we went, after gobbling down two chubby gyoza bulging with minced chicken, garlic, ginger and nira (garlic chives), we go clucking mad, slurping a bowl of thin, springy noodles luxuriating in a knockout shoyu broth, topped with two slices of grilled chicken, marinated egg, leek tops, beni shōga (ginger tinted with red shiso), a little menma (lacto-fermented bamboo shoots) and three sheets of crisp nori seaweed. In short, a bowl that really brings down the house! · Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? The bare essentials: iced green tea (€3.50), umeshu (€6.50) and Kirin on tap (€5 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Ramen €15-18, toppings €2, sides €3.50-6.80.