Don’t toy with the ocean! After making waves in Ebisu’s seafood stalls, Guillaume “Pêche Tonton” Busson and Sachiko Ogushi are now casting their net in this no-frills fish shop (sakana-ya in Japanese), revamped on a shoestring. A far cry from the modest decor, the catch is top-tier and sourced fresh each morning from trusted fishmongers and small-scale fishermen, then expertly transformed into both raw and cooked dishes. And when things drift towards Japan, Sachiko takes over, laying out delicate slices of seasonal fish over vinegary rice in fin-tastic lunchboxes that reel you right in. · Bouyaya Kitori

Shopping list: In-season scallops from the Baie de Seine, Breton skate wing (€12.80 to €29.80 per kg) or go big with amberjack for sashimi (€3.48 per 100 g), as well Sachiko’s unmissable chirashi (€16 €, Tuesday to Saturday lunch).