Camille Caubere had a nose for a good thing when she gave Xuxu a deft makeover, the former little canteen tucked away in a peaceful corner of Biarritz. It’s the kind of place that makes it hard to drag yourself away: a sunlit dining room, white-paneled walls, Alki furniture, breakfast on the fly (with Azeria coffee roasted in Anglet), to-die-for pastries, Basque beverages and a tightly edited menu (two starters, two mains, two desserts). And then there are the plates from globe-munching chef Coline Leuillet, who dishes up border-hopping bistro fare at lunchtime, all organic, vegivore and responsibly sourced – vegetables from Jardins de Harda, meat from Aho in Bidart… Basque in all its glory! · Augustin Marie

Ate: Knockout salmorejo with garlic confit; supremely tender beef tataki over miso-buttered rice with pickled cucumber, coriander and purple basil; and a heart-melting chocolate cake with buckwheat paste and stewed apricots.

Price: Breakfast €5-10, à la carte €28-33.