After cutting his teeth among the heavyweights of Copenhagen (Noma, 108) and Berlin (Ernst), chef Jules St-Cyr can now be found by Quai de l’Arsenal, in a serene hideaway named after his ancestors, showing exactly what he’s made of. Behind an impressive bespoke oak counter, flanked by fellow Canadians Dylan Mota and James Gordon, the young Quebecois crafts a dazzling cuisine rooted in nature, chasing every fleeting nuance of the season – from wild foraging to harvests from his own Montreuil garden. Hidden from the city behind a linen curtain, ten diners sit face-to-face with the trio as wood-fired dishes arrive in sequence, somewhere between contemplative haikus and poetic gut punches, leaving the whole counter momentarily speechless. · Hector Knor

Ate: Among the fifteen sublime courses on the €85 menu, crab jelly wrapped in sakura leaf and marinated shiso; binchotan-grilled gurnard with fern jus, turnip, fried garlic and green garlic; and lightly whipped farmhouse cream topped with two granitas – one fermented cherry blossom, the other spruce.

Price: €55 menu (six or eight courses, Friday and Saturday lunch) and €85 menu (fifteen courses, dinner and Sunday lunch).