Three separate rooms, three distinct ambiances! At this new hot spot from serial restaurateur Charles Compagnon (the man who brought you 52 Faubourg Saint Denis and Richer), you’re welcomed in from dawn through dinner. Where exactly? At the edge of the Sentier neighborhood, in the small lounge for your morning coffee, the bistro space for a peaceful lunch (or dinner), and the dining room for group feasts. All three have been dolled up by Compagnon’s partner, designer Gesa Hansen: blonde wood, copper light fixtures, reddish marble and sculptures inspired by the work of Carlos Ferreira de la Terre, the owner’s grandfather. And on the plates? Cuisine that’ll have you wanting to come back for more, prepared by Geoffrey Lengagne (ex-Per Se in New York and Sketch in London): a graphic braided brioche sprinkled throughout with Kalamata olives and topped with caramelized onions and raw cream; salt cod fritters with a fantastic hazelnut romesco dipping sauce; roasted cauliflower electrified by lemon confit and an intensely herby salsa verde; outstanding dry-aged sirloin steak, served with mouthwatering panisse and oyster mushrooms in a perfectly tangy jus; and to end the meal, an orgasmic chocolate tart. // Albertine Simonet
FEELING THIRSTY? Spoilt for choice, between the coffee roasted in-house (€2.90), freshly pressed juices (€6), balanced cocktails (like the Quitana which mixes tequila, lime, grapefruit, ginger beer and smoked salt – €14) and organic wines, including a Sancerre white from the Domaine Vacheron (€11 a glass) or Charmetemps, a Beaujolais red produced in conjunction with the boss (€42 a bottle).
PRICE: Small plates and appetizers €8-13, mains €22-34, desserts €9-12.
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