Fed up kitschy clichés, Ti Tienchutima (a former flutist turned chef at Street Bangkok) and Line Chairatanalerkdee (ex-stylist) decided it was time to give diners the real deal and retune their native cuisine to a contemporary key. From the open kitchen – set against an exotic-chic, vintage backdrop of marble-topped tables, playful knick-knacks and wavy ceramic tableware – the duo sends out flawless Thai small plates with modern flair. That evening, the table went full Siam mode: a vibrant pomelo salad tossed with Mexican coriander, apple and cucumber ribbons; flash-seared salmon fillet with laab sauce and crispy rice, finished with a galangal vinaigrette and a squirt of nuoc-mâm; perfectly golden fried chicken leg, glistening in a tamarind and smoked chili jus; and a kha prao reboot featuring spice-glazed beef cheeks on fluffy white rice, boosted with nam phrik chili sauce and shatteringly crisp basil leaves. Dessert stayed on theme with mango sticky rice – juicy fruit chunks perched on sticky black rice, soaked in lightly salty coconut milk. · Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? Iced tea sweetened with condensed milk (€5.90), locally sourced soft drinks like Umà cola (€5.90 for 330 ml) and a symphony of natural wines, including a red cinsault from Domaine du Fond Cyprès (€8 a glass) and a skin-contact muscat from L’Octavin in the Jura (€75 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus €18-30 (lunch), mains €12-24, sides €3.50-9, desserts €8-12.