After making waves with their ultra-chic sandwich shop (from-scratch breads stuffed with caponata, pistachio-studded saucisson with cervelle de canut cheese, or slow-stewed beef with cheddar) plus a sugar-loaded supporting cast (financiers, waffles, canelés, caramel-vanilla-popcorn tarts), Justine Arnaud and Alexandre Da Silva have upped sticks for their second location, just minutes from the railway station. The spot? A pocket refuge tucked at the end of a quiet passage, opening onto a leafy courtyard terrace and a bright dining room with a live-action kitchen, packed to the rafters from noon onwards. Street food is in its DNA, but this is street food with backbone – and bread, all kneaded and baked on site, giving the whole operation serious substance. At 22 euros, the set menu is a steal: irresistible œufs mayo marbled with squid ink mayo and topped with smoked herring; then steamed chicken ballotine with a mushroom stuffing, served with mashed potatoes and a glossy, thickened chicken jus – the kinds that demands to be chased across the plate with hunks of focaccia. In short, no false notes, right through to Justine’s craquelin-topped cream puff, stuffed with caramelized apples and a cloud of whipped cream. Come summer, the choux buns make way for oven-baked pizzas, blistered to perfection and devoured in the sun-drenched courtyard. · Adrien Nouviaire

FEELING THIRSTY? Free-flowing beers, including a local draft from Brasserie Dark Lab (€4.10 for a half-pint). On the wine front, it’s strictly natural: Rêver, a Loire Valley cabernet sauvignon aged in amphorae by Palindrome (€5.50 a glass), Les Pucelles, an Alsatian orange wine from Julien Meyer (€37 a bottle) or Les Amis De L’Arpette, a Gaillac prunelart from the eponymous estate (€29).

PRICE: Set menus €19-22.