De Puta Madre

After opening the very exclusive Villa Magnan in Biarritz, Anne and Jérôme Israël are doubling down with this joyful spot tucked away at the back of their property, where the vibe is a cross between a big table filled with friends and a family meal, all in a chic, surfer atmosphere. The decor is magical: an open kitchen under a glass ceiling, antique furniture, fine china and rain-proof scaffolding. The plates are just as spectacular, showing off their deep Basque roots. For us, the day we went: salmorejo (a creamier version of gazpacho, served with croutons and thin slivers of ham); classic roasted chicken with crispy skin, garlicky croutons soaked in the cooking juices, grilled padrón peppers, crispy yet tender potatoes and a gravy boat of the intense jus; a light crème caramel for dessert, before you head to one of the little lounges dotted across the garden to relax after your meal. As a bonus, you might just run into Hector, the estate’s donkey! // Nicolas Leanjem

FEELING THIRSTY? Take a peek through the cellar and choose a bottle from the selection provided by the Biba Ardoak co-op, who supply the crème de la crème of natural Basque wine (on both the French and Spanish sides of the border): from Hontza (Hasta que cante el cuco, Too Mahats) or Etxondoa (Xut in rosé or red) from €25 to €55 a bottle; by the glass, there’s Cyprès de Toi, a Languedoc white from Laetitia Ourliac and Rodolphe Gianesini or Buscando, a Spanish red from Gil Bernal (€6).
PRICE: Menu €60-70.