Bye bye bookworms, hello famished bellies! Under the neo-classical arches of the venerable Galerie Bortier shopping arcade, in the former haven for rare and second-hand book sellers located just a stone’s throw from the Grand-Place, the invincible Lakhdar Hamina-Lakhdar (already at the helm of Verigoud, Malmö and Fight Club) has once again hit the jackpot. This time around, he did it by bringing together his best Italophile tricks of the trade (he’s also the padre of Caffè al Dente and Gazzetta) with help from his sidekick Carmelo Scenamo (the founder of Mamma Roma). Together, they offer up culinary delights, aperitivo-at-the-deli-style, at this stretch of bar, around one of the tables or in the tiny mezzanine section, where you can savor some of the joyful treats prepared by chef Matteo Gentile (ex-Caffè al Dente): first-rate charcuterie, authentic focaccia, perfectly prepared pasta… and for us, the night we went, rife with 90s indie tunes playing in the background, a plate of indulgently fatty Tuscan coppa, Vitruvian olives and a stracciatella-mortadella sandwich (also served at lunch), all of which was washed down with a lovely little glass of white. We’ll be back for the pasta (sage and Parmesan taglioni, tortellini in brodo with a chicken and vegetable broth seasoned with cloves, etc.), and to bring home a few products from the épicerie section – toasted Piedmont hazelnuts, salted capers from Puglia, Gli Aironi carnaroli rice… Avanti! · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry

FEELING THIRSTY? A naturalist, Italian and fairly-priced wine list, featuring gems like Ette, a Piedmont white from the Summer Wolff winery (€7 a glass), Despina, a sparkling wine from Quarticello in Emilia-Romagna (€32 a bottle), Di Gino, a red from Fattoria San Lorenzo in the Marche region (same price), plus a €10 reduction when you bring the bottle home with you unopened. FYI: tap water is free.

PRICE: Focaccias (lunch), appetizers €4-12, pasta €14-17, desserts €8, épicerie products €9.50 to €9.50.