Golda

All that glitters is Or Michaeli! The 24-carat chef left Arles and the bling-bling Hôtel Voltaire to bring a little glitz to Golda, the brilliant café owned by Ilan Loufrani (Bistrot Georges) in the middle of the Réformés neighborhood. In the dining room with a lovely ceramic bar under bright yellow awnings, come dine on mezze with a Levantine touch: perfectly prepared falafel served with tahini sauce; incredibly elegant meagre carpaccio adorned with marinated apricots and crispy ginger threads; stunning smoked roast beef dotted with crushed olives and glazed in a dashi vinaigrette; before a cheeky chocolate lava cake draped in a white chocolate emulsion and puffed buckwheat. At lunch time, the dishes of the day offer up just as many gems: lamb kefta with a tomato coulis and a Moulin Mas de Daudet lentil salad with jus de viande; eggplant milanaise with pan-fried chickpeas and yogurt sauce; roasted apricot financier… // Thomas Jossin 

FEELING THIRSTY? A short selection of organic and natural wines: a Provence white from the Domaine de la Camarette (€4 a glass), a Vendôme Pineau d’Aunis from Les Équilinristes (€30 a bottle), a Touraine Chenin produced by Xavier Courant (€35)…
PRICE: À la carte €26-37 (lunch), mezze €6-12 (dinner).