Welcome home! From across the street, Anne Oury (former hotel owner) and Selim Mouhoubi (real estate agent and music producer) watched as their neighbor slowly fell into disrepair – before finally rolling up their sleeves and bringing this handsome nineteenth-century building back to life. The result is a cozy hotel-restaurant with true family-home vibes, a huge terrace and inviting lounge spaces. Inside, decorative moldings and marble details flirt with bold colors, warm wood tones and Olivia De Bona’s frescoes. While over in the kitchen, Laura puts a modern spin on French bourgeois classics: creamy chanterelle and oyster mushroom soup crowned with a runny egg and toasted hazelnuts; textbook beef bourguignon tenderly braised, served with dauphinoise potatoes like a typical Sunday lunch; or chicken smothered in a fragrant vin jaune sauce, paired with new potatoes and softly poached pears; before ending with a rich, silky tonka bean crème brûlée. Come summer, the huge, hidden 500m² garden bursts into life with relaxed, family-friendly BBQs for locals and visiting friends alike. · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? A varied selection of (mostly) conventional wines, including a Bourgogne aligoté from Domaine de l’Ecette (€7 a glass) and a sancerre from Serge Laporte (€42 a bottle), alongside a few biodynamic options such as a cinsault vieilles vignes from Clos des Centenaires in the Pays d’Oc (€46). Otherwise, locally brewed beers do the trick, like IPAs from Brasserie Urbaine in Saint-Ouen (€8 a pint).

PRICE: Set menus €25-30 (lunch), appetizers €9.50-11, mains €19-28, cheeses €9, desserts €9-11, kids’ menu €11.