Le Vieux Four

Having honed his craft in the kitchens of Saint Eutrope in Clermont and later at Pré du Puy in Cébazat, chef Maxime Bichon has rekindled his passion in the heart of the Tuscany of Auvergne. In the village of Chas, along the gamay wine route that winds through volcanic hills, his bistro now sits on the central village square, just across from the old washhouse pools where small catfish now swim. Cross the large terrace with its bright yellow awning, and step into the tiled dining room of Le Vieux Four, for a taste of something beautifully simple. The lunch menu is tight and tidy (two starters, two mains, two desserts), delivering cuisine that doesn’t overdo it, combining precision, generosity and attention to detail. The day we went for lunch: a cheerful house-made terrine of Cantal pork served with pickles, or a tomato and cucumber salad with fresh goat cheese and basil; then thinly sliced cold roast beef with a classic jus, plus tartar sauce and golden fries, or homemade tagliolini with lemon zest and bottarga. For dessert, freshly churned almond ice cream (or peanut flavor – think Snickers, only better) or an apricot panna cotta on a crisp shortbread. You’ll leave Le Vieux Four with a warm heart and a belly baked just right. //Henri Depecker

FEELING THIRSTY? Auvergne’s naturopathic heavyweights served at affordable prices (like the pineau d’aunis from Patrick Bouju and Justine Loiseau at €3.50 a glass), as well as other fine wines from farther afield (a sylvaner from Domaine Goepp at €29 a bottle). For those going dry, there’s a homemade elderflower syrup (€1.20 with water, €3 with Garçon lemonade) or Franklin ginger beer (€4 for 200 ml).

PRICE: Set menu €18.50 (lunch except Saturday), à la carte €26-37.