When you’ve got taste, it shows! Sokunthear Vong (ex-Carrousel and Leroy in London) already had it in spades when he made a name for himself at Les Deux Amis. Now dropping anchor just a couple of courses from the Bassin de la Villette, the chef with Cambodian roots looks set to make plenty more friends. And not just thanks to the decor at his new spot L’Espérance: a long, spacious dining room with none of the shoulder-to-shoulder squeeze,, glossy mahogany tables and a huge zinc-topped bar lit by long, linear lighting. The vision is as crisp as the plating, with the chef’s knack for stripping things back working wonders through pinpoint cooking, razor-sharp seasoning and Asian-inspired twists. The fun doesn’t stop at the food either, extending to the wine list and the brilliantly eclectic soundtrack that mixes pop hits with deep cuts. Then again, Sok is one of the co-founders of Cracki Records. Hip, hip, hooray! · Tami Taylor

Ate: A banging Baby Kys oyster jazzed up with bacon-infused oil and a mignonette condiment; spot-on mullet crudo dotted with fresh figs and fermented chili with garlic and ginger; and glorious poularde glistening with ginger- and spring onion-infused jus, served with a brothy rice bowl.

Price: Snacks €3.50-€12; starters €12-€28; mains €23-€28; dry-aged sirloin steak €65 (for 2-3 people); cheeses and desserts €6-€12.