From Mokoloco to Locomal, Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem have done more than reshuffle a few letters. They’ve swapped their rotating-chef canteen for a Mexican haunt with a sand-colored facade. At the stoves of the seemingly endless open kitchen stretching the length of the narrow dining room? Jose Oviedo, who did stints at El Nopal and Mokonuts, the duo’s flagship restaurant. He brings a few Mexican tricks of his own to the table, from tamales (steamed corn dough wrapped in corn husks) to totopos (baked tortilla chips served with the salsa of the day), equally at home as an after-work bite or as part of the five-course tasting menu. The drinks keeps apace too, with micheladas, proper mezcal and just enough thoughtfully chosen wines to keep one foot firmly in the 11th arrondissement. · Harry Gobeur

Ate: Among other Mexicool treats, a cigar-shaped rolled taco, fried and stuffed with potato, carrot purée and sheep’s milk cheese; an elegant Emmental quesadilla layered with dreamy watercress purée, tender pork, grilled samphire, broccolini and radicchio.

Price: Tacos and small plates €8–19, tasting menu €55 (five courses).