Manech pork from the Belaun co-op in Aldudes, fruits and vegetables from Robert Olhagaray… At the restaurant run by Romain Goyeneche (the chef) and Paul Chauvet (front of house), both of whom used to work for David Toutain in Paris, the sourcing of their ingredients is taken extremely seriously. Their HQ? The ground floor of a house (taupe walls, light wood, a windowed kitchen), where the chef stews up sleek terroir-ist dishes. The day we went for lunch, we had: a flamboyant Rose de Berne tomato covered in preserved citron, pickled red cabbage, lemony marigold leaves, basil and sea beans, all bathed in a tomato-raspberry water with agastache oil; tender oven-roasted and then flash-seared pork loin, paired with romanesco broccoli (served plain and as a purée) with pan-fried onions, all moistened by an excellent jus de viande – and sponged up with delicious organic bread from the Biarritz bakery Ennéartz; before a double beetroot and sorrel sorbet, followed by some delicious green and black figs balanced out with shortbread and lemony cream, plus floral ice cream (made with roses, mimosa and nasturtium) and purslane. // Gérard Roubeix
FEELING THIRSTY? : Paul, who used to work at Cave Augé in Paris, focuses on living wines: Xingolei, an irouléguy from Bixente Indart (€13 a glass), Blizzard, a Bergerac blanc from the Château Lestignac (€32 a bottle), Enlèvement Demandé, a cabernet franc from Nicolas Reau (€31)…
PRICE: : Set menus €42 (lunch except for national holidays), €69 and €92, food and wine pairings €22 to €65.
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