Seated in neat rows in the small dining room with minimalist Japanese decor modeled after the Tokyo flagship restaurant, we’re here for the house specialty: unagi (eel), served grilled and in a variety of sauces. The other day at lunch, stiffly seated on a fawn-colored leather banquette, we opted for the impeccable Matsu menu: good tuna sashimi; crisp stewed vegetables; a miniature bowl of miso soup; before a copious portion of grilled eel in tare sauce (a sort of thick, sweet soy sauce), lounging on a bed of rice. Noticed on the next table over, slow-roasted eel with ginger, bittersweet turnips, peas and languorous miso-fried eggplant. For dessert, there’s a rich black sesame crème caramel. // John Mason

FEELING THIRSTY? Sake served warm, cold or at room temperature: a mineral and fruity Dassaï 45 (€14 for 100 ml), unfiltered Nigori Junmai (€23 for 240 ml)… Along with some craft Hikari beers (€9 for 330 ml) or sweet potato Coedo (€8).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €29-205, bento boxes €36-58, sides €4-21.