Elodie and Jean-François Piège are true restaurateurs… in every sense of the word! After glamorizing the timeless Poule au Pot, the couple is bringing another classic bistro institution in Les Halles back to life – while maintaining its authentic 1920s decor (moleskin banquettes, engraved windows from the Roaring Twenties, mirrors from the interwar period, bouquets of dried flowers…). This time machine of flavor sends out invincible classics of bourgeois cuisine via a menu that rotates daily just as it always has. Our Tuesday lunch featured a divine plate of ham to start, followed by a silky chickpea, tuna and mi-cuit egg salad, plus crisp haricots verts dressed in vinaigrette; a hearty steak tartare seasoned with a handful of fresh herbs (chervil, tarragon and chives), and paired with crispy fries (though not very many of them) with a vinegary mayonnaise dipping sauce; or comforting and extra-crispy panko-breaded fried pollack… What about dessert? The next table over from us opted for rice pudding drizzled in caramel sauce, or for something even simpler, a plate of fresh pineapple with lime and mint syrup. // John Mason
FEELING THIRSTY? Some beautiful, organic-centric vintages: a pinot blanc from the Domaine Muré (€11 a glass), a Côtes-du-Rhône red by the Domaine des Espiers (€10), Jeune, a Châteauneuf-du-pape from the Domaine Grand Tinel (€15 a bottle)… or if you want bubbles, a glass of Champagne from Coquard-Bour (€16).
PRICE: €37-46 (weekday lunch), à la carte €38-76.
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