After working at La Belloteka, Nicolas Breton set off with his chef’s hat and apron in tow, to set up shop in the center of the Bibi-Beaurivage neighborhood, where the former Dano delicatessen used to be. All that remains of its previous life is a few white tiles on the wall. As for the rest, there are hardwood floors, brown faux leather banquettes, floral wallpaper, a wood and metal communal table… The night we went, his local, organic cuisine really won us over: incredible, braised, buttery monkfish cheeks from Saint-Jean-de-Luz marinated in smoked paprika, perfectly paired with haricots verts, pickled onions, sweet chili and rouille… Other mouthwatering options included roasted lamb with xipister (a piment d’Espelette sauce), braised zucchini and fromage frais; a Galician sirloin steak with fries and chimichurri; or even caramelized rice pudding with a quince/grapefruit condiment. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines: a Jurançon from the Domaine Castera (€8 a glass), a Lot white from Fabien Jouves, a Rioja Malaspiedras (€32 for each bottle)…

PRICE: À la carte €29-43.