Raw steel, immaculate walls, timeworn wooden tables, Malo ceramics… Despite what this restaurant’s name might lead you to believe (a reference to “dirty old man” Bukowski’s alter ego), this place is very tidy! In Margaux Thirard, Amaury Guyot and Arthur Touré-Pirot’s café/restaurant, all of whom used to work at Dersou, Jean-Adrien Buniazet (ex-Dersou as well) sends out delightful dishes from the open kitchen. Served à la carte the night we went: a beautiful slice of crispy boudin noir titillated by pickled apples and radishes; crispy roasted guinea fowl suprême with a corn gratin and somewhat bland shiitakes; cacio e pepe gnocchi that were as sweet as a kiss; before a moist Ovomaltine cake with a honeycomb cookie and a smoked tea and cardamom cream. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural and organic wines: a Tourangeau white from the Puzelat brothers (€6 a glass), or an Angevin from Terre de l’Elu (€28 a bottle), a Saint-Joseph red from Paul Estève (€65), etc.
PRICE: À la carte €40-43, brunch €12-20 (Sunday).
