Le Bon Saint Pourçain
Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2016
In 2015, Le Bon Saint Pourçain fell into the hands of serial-bistrotteur David Lanher (Caffè Stern, Racines des Prés, La Crèmerie…), and was given a facelift by the talented architect Laurent Croissandeau. Now the only thing this former family-run restaurant has from its past are its globe light fixtures. As for the rest, there’s a midnight blue façade, Baumann chairs, plump scarlet leather banquettes and a stainless-steel kitchenette, where Mathieu Techer (ex-Sergent Recruteur) unveils really nice plates for a local VIP crowd. The other day at lunch: a gnarly line-caught bluefin tuna carpaccio with crisp cubes of battaglione cucumber, a lemon vinaigrette and radish; silky plancha-grilled cod with pearly meat and crispy skin, paired with artichoke hearts and coco de Paimpol beans bathed in a fish soup-style sauce, all whipped up with a chorizo cream; before a flaky plum clafoutis with lemon cream and a verbena espuma and sorbet. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Sommelier Samuel Jacq has a talent for unearthing good bottles: a Saint-Pourçain red from the Domaine des Bourrats (€7 a glass); a Lot white, Baptiste, from the Clos Siguier (€7); a Corsican red from the Clos Canarelli (€92 a bottle); a Côtes-du-Rhône white from the Château Grillet (€100)…
PRICE: À la carte €52-79.