Le Bon Saint Pourçain
Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2016
On a small street between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, you’ll stumble upon the midnight blue façade of a former dive that’s been madeover by David Lanher, the owner of some true blockbuster restaurants – Racines, Racines des Prés, La Crémerie, etc. With 25 years at Flore under his belt, Dominique Léger knows how to seduce the luxurious Saint-Germain-des-Prés crowd, to the point of ignoring a few newcomers (even if there weren’t very many of us) in the tiny dining room with white tablecloths and red benches, or on the miniature terrace with Baumann chairs. In the kitchen, Matthieu Techer (ex-Senderens, Sergent Recruteur) listens to the flames. Alone and concentrated in his open kitchen, he sends out serious cuisine: for a shared appetizer, there’s a very gentleman farmer-inspired country terrine, with figs and beets (€12-14); for the main, a colossal pork tenderloin with glazed turnips, artichokes and puréed cauliflower drizzled in a flamboyant jus de cuisson (€26); and for dessert, a light baba au rhum over a cloud of whipped vanilla cream (€12). To drink, there are a few infidelities against the (poor) Saint-Pourçain: Blaye-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Château Clos du Loup (€50 a bottle), Montlouis-sur-Loire from Benoit Mérias, cuvée Les Maisonnettes (€8 a glass)… À la carte €47-65. // M.J.-D.