Le Bon Saint Pourçain
Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2016
Hidden out behind the place Saint-Sulpice, there’s an entirely vintage sidewalk terrace in front of a restaurant with a midnight blue façade and a carefully decorated dining room (red leather benches, white tablecloths, mosaic tiled floors), one of David Lanher’s most beautiful creations yet (Caffé Stern, Vivant Cave, Racines…). The sensitive restaurateur fell in love with this old bistro that was badly in need of a fresh coat of paint, so that the Parisian in-crowd would come back…. The result? Dishes that aren’t cheap, served with a Saint-Germain-des-Prés nonchalance by a former garçon at the Café de Flore, and meticulously prepared by the young Mathieu Techer, a former chef for Senderens: classic leeks, soft-boiled egg and a peanut sauce; extremely gourmet grilled boudin noir with crisp green apples; the meat of a roasted free-range rabbit, moistened by a girolle mushroom emulsion and modernized with shiso leaves; and a very fresh combination of poached apricots, fromage blanc and verbena sorbet. In the glasses, you’ll find bourgeois wines, but that’s not all: Vermentino Domaine de Cantaussel for the apéritif (€8 a glass), Fleur de Pédesclaux, a prestigious Pauillac (€60 a bottle), etc. À la carte €41-61. // I.B.