Best sausage and mashed potatoes of 2017
With his sausage and mashed potatoes that has a cult following, prankster chef Thomas Brachet (ex-Beef Club) welcomes all of Paris into his working-class bistro – a solid wood bar, varnished tables, broken tile floors. The other day at lunch on the €19 menu: a famous pork-veal terrine to heat things up, or a celery rémoulade with smoked herring that was just as chauvinistic; super crispy suckling lamb prepared as a tajine, with apricots, sesame, cinnamon and cilantro; or perfectly steamed skate with peas, flat coco beans and lots of new potatoes; before a sweet fiadone with a lemon-basil cream. Don’t forget about the ever incredible sausage with mashed potatoes made with Bornjambuc butter. To drink, Tristan Renoux fills glasses with all kinds of additive-free beverages: a biodynamic Grenache from Florence and Olivier Leriche in the Ardèche (€5.50 a glass), a gourmet Saumur, La folle Berthe (€30 a bottle), or a lively natural Cairanne from Réjane and Wilfried Pouzoulas (€28). Set menus €19-23 (weekday lunch), à la carte €36-53 (Saturday and Sunday). // N.K.