Stone walls, concrete floors, oil paintings, antique mirrors… In this cool spot just south of Gare de l’Est, Arthur Combe (ex-Experimental) and Hugo Blanchet (ex-Robuchon) snatch up thirsty wandering souls and lost appetites. For us, the night we went: the house’s famous bone marrow with a breadcrumb crust, pampered by a fennel cream and sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts; delicious chanterelle mushrooms served in their jus with pistachios and spring onions; tender roasted pork belly with red orache and lightly aniseedy citrus fruits; before an incredible pecan pudding topped with maple syrup and a moussey tonka bean whipped cream. // A.A. and D.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Everything natural! A Provence rosé from the Domaine de la Mongestine (€5 a glass), an Alsatian Pinot noir from the Domaine Agapé (€40 a bottle), Athénaïs, a Burgundy Chardonnay from Béru (€46)… Along with cocktails, including the Vieux Rectangle – Cognac, Aperol, red vermouth, absinthe, angostura and Peychaud’s bitters, €13.

PRICE: Plates €8-25.