Black and white tiled floors, engraved iron plaques on the walls, white tablecloths, bare light bulbs… Welcome to Julien Cohen’s (Grazie, Professore, Quindici) classy establishment, where rounds of lightly fermented dough get topped with carefully sourced ingredients making for some fatally chic pizzas. For us, the day we went for lunch, after a Piedmont beef carpaccio marinated in honey and tea: a Marinara with crisp dough and a plump crust, copiously topped with cherry tomatoes, taggiasche olives and Mediterranean anchovies – one of twenty-some options, including the mouthwatering Chic white pizza, combining rosemary and lardo di Colonnata from Fausto Guadagni. For dessert? Opt for the comforting Nutella pizza and you’re sure to have a good nap that afternoon! // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are Italian wines per tutti! A Tuscan white from Tunia (€9 a glass), a red Apulian from Natalino Del Prete (€8), a Piedmont red from the Domaine Bera (€50 a bottle), a Campania white from Pietracupa (€52)…

PRICE: Antipasti €6-20, pizzas €10-23, desserts €9-13.