Kosuke Nabeta (ex-Maison du Saké) puts a Japanese twist on the French terroir at this peaceful hideaway near the Seine. In the tradition of omakase (“I’ll leave it up to you”), this talented chef takes lovers of Nipponese escapades on a delicate seven- or eight-course journey. Featured on the €98 tasting menu the night we went: delightful charred squid prepared using the aburi technique, with Astara caviar on a bed of cucumber and beads of yuzu vinegar jelly; telluric Imperial shrimp marinated in sake / soy sauce / mirin and lightly torched aburi-style, with eggplant and a shiitake jus; incredible grilled pollack with a tomato jus, black olive powder and a fish fumet espuma; meaty duck breast with an explosively flavorful radish leaf and karashi mustard purée with a soy sauce reduction; before a refreshing peach soup with coconut sorbet and smoked shiso meringue, followed by feta, fresh figs, tonka bean ice cream and vanilla cream for a nice finish to the meal! One piece of advice? Request a table in the basement space under the arched ceilings (stone walls, blond hardwood floors, tatami mats – so remove your shoes!), rather than the raftered dining room on the ground floor. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful natural wines – a Loire red from Loïc Mahé at €10 a glass, or an Arbois white, La Mailloche, from Stéphane Tissot at €90 a bottle – and some precious sake, including an unpasteurized Kidoizumi junmai at €14 a glass and a Kizan Chikumanishiki junmai at €78 a bottle.
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €65 and €85 (Saturday lunch), €98 and €120 (food and drink pairings + €50, €75 and €95).