Kosuke Nabeta (ex-Maison du Saké) puts a Japanese twist on the French terroir at this peaceful hideaway near the Seine. In the tradition of omakase (“I’ll leave it up to you”), this talented chef takes lovers of Nipponese escapades on a delicate and sustainable poetic journey. Featured on the set tasting menu the night we went, after a series of amuse-bouches that set the tone (a spinach bubble wrapped up in bonito dashi jelly, sesame crumble, an exuberant Marie Morgane oyster poached in rice vinegar, corn kernel tempura draped in lovage and dry-aged pork belly), came a procession of minimalist offerings plated on untreated wood, volcanic stone and ceramic bowls made by the chef: mackerel maki with buckwheat and trout roe in a kombu corset; imperial shrimp given a red glow from habanero pepper, invigorated by a dashi espuma and shrimp with butternut squash tagliatelle; the chef’s majestic specialty, marinated veal medallion over a balsamic reduction served with shiitake mushrooms perfumed with Sakura wood mist, plus (t)risotto (prepared using sweet black Japanese rice) topped with a creamy truffle espuma; delicate veal chop grilled over charcoal and braised lamb shoulder under a ribbon of ginger-infused beetroot with purple carrot in an intensely flavorful garlic and soy glaze… Before a volcanic dessert featuring magma-like mochi blackened with vegetal charcoal, all tied together by a chickpea cream under an eruption of Chinsuko crumble and a mousse flavored with Japanese spices. // Ninsu

FEELING THIRSTY? A spell book of carefully chosen wild elixirs: La Sauvageonne, a Savoie chasselas from David Humbert (€16 a glass), Les Crays, a renowned Burgundy pinot produced by Julien Guillot (€19), Lulu, a rare Auvergne gamay from the guru Patrick Bouju (€98 a bottle)… or a selection of sakes for connoisseurs (€12 to €19 for 120 ml).
PRICE: Tasting menus €85 (lunch), and €150 (dinner).