A laid-back gastrobar with a small riverside terrace on the banks of the Lys, featuring just five outdoor tables and gray-and-black tones… But step into the kitchen, and it’s fireworks, courtesy of Champagne-born globetrotter Gilles Maupoux (from the Vatel school of hospitality management, to the Cirque du Soleil)! From explosive small plates – like crunchy popcorn shrimp with a spicy mayo dip, or the cutesy little shallot tatin with caramelized mushroom duxelles – to tempting dishes: a creamy clam chowder-waterzooï hyrid, served in a puff pastry bowl; slow-cooked lamb shank that pulls away like a charm, served with mashed potato and a strong coffee reduction; scallop ravioli and lobster bisque; and grilled bone marrow with a chorizo ​​crumble. Top marks too for the New York-style cheesecake! // Edgar Funkel

FEELING THIRSTY? Cocktails curated by Jasper Permentier (ex-Discount Suit Company in London and Sgol in Ghent), like the fruity Butterbeer made with Belgian Fryns gin, spiced butternut syrup and pineapple soda, or the Gentleman’s Choice, an American-Japanese mash-up of whiskey, genmaicha cordial, citrus tincture and wine foam (€14 each, €11 for mocktails). There’s also a blonde lager from the De Meester brewery (€5.50 for 330 ml) or a glass of nero d’avola from the Corte dei Mori winery (€5.50), picked from the short, conventional wine list.

PRICE: Menu €35 (lunch), platters and shared plates €12-20, mains €14-16, dessert €10.