Who are Boris and Maurice? They’re the two owners of this radiant, French-inspired bistro (Thonet-style chairs, a cream-colored counter, globe lighting), who have made their mark just a stone’s throw from the cemetery. As for their roles, it’s pretty clear cut: Boris (Mahy) plays in the kitchen, while Maurice (Van Damme) juggles the bottles. The last time we went, we ordered all of the following à la carte: pumpkin croquettes dipped in a creamy paprika aioli; extremely fresh sea bream crudo with a tangy preserved lemon vinaigrette for added zing; tasty vitello tonnato blushing alongside some slow-roasted beetroot; perfectly cooked Atlantic cod doused in beurre blanc sauce, leeks and herring roe; delicious lamb noisette with a full-bodied jus, served with spring carrots and savoy cabbage stoemp (mash); before a decent vin jaune crème brûlée. // Anita Kane

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list with an eye towards the Loire: a Touraine Sauvignon from Isabelle and Xavier Frissant (€6 a glass), Prémices, a white Jasnières from the Domaine de Bellivière (€54 a bottle), Montée des Roches, a Saumur-Champigny from Arnaud Lambert (39 €).
PRICE: Menu €25 (lunch), à la carte €48-56 (dinner).