Grub’s up! After Sarah Chougnet-Strudel, Ella Aflalo and Erika Blu, it’s come time for Minou Sabahi (ex-Fulgurances l’Entrepôt in Paris) to take the reins at Camas-Sutra, a coolinaire residence brought to you by the team behind Le Parpaing qui Flotte. What should you expect? A big wooden table for 20 pairs of buttocks, tucked away inside an old former butcher’s shop in Marseille (black and white checkerboard tile floors, wine bottle green tile backsplash), where the sharpest local chefs follow each other in short succession. The night we went, under a wave of Persian music, the Iranian chef really hit the bull’s eye: lamb terrine (made with liver and everything) – the queen of house pâté topped with shaved turnips; delightful spring broccoli tempura served with a sublime rose mayonnaise for dipping; fresh maki composed of lettuce, peas, mint and cilantro, all titillated by a magical apple cider vinegar sauce; spinach leaves dancing in a translucent pea pod broth drizzled with mint oil; before a tender slice of cheesecake… // Gwen Jacquère
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a selection of around 15 natural wines to choose from: an Alsatian white blend from Jean-Marc Dreyer (€8 a glass), a Gard red from Le Mas Mellet (€25 a bottle), an Hérault Cinsault by the prodigious Anthony Tortul (€30)… But if you’re not in the mood for wine, there’s an Oude Gueuze beer from the Brasserie 3 Fonteinen (€26 for 750 ml).
PRICE: Set menu €54.
