These two rainboot-clad filles will terroir-ize you, in the most delicious way! Deeply rooted in the Brittany countryside, Lénaïck Geffroy (ex-Bierbuik and Le Nessay) and Louise Lefèbvre (ex-Jardins de la Matz) have perfected the art of rural hospitality. At their bucolic gîte, nestled among an orchard, a vegetable garden and a rustic table d’hôte-style restaurant, Lénaïck works her magic in the kitchen, while Louise tends to both the guests and the market garden. The last time we went, squeezed together around the wood-burning stove alongside their dog Paco, beneath a ceiling strewn with dried flowers, we had all of the following: a very earthy dish of cooked red beets, raw Chiogga beets and ricotta tinged purple by blueberry coulis; delicate Provence-style beef (or a vegetarian version prepared with helianthus, a tuber similar to sunchoke), served with pillowy ravioli stuffed with ricotta, onions, carrots and herbs; followed by a fabulous composition of meringue, dulse (red seaweed), buckwheat, lemon and a second type of seaweed with a nutty flavor… Another time, the menu featured squid and onion tempura with sauce gribiche and bitter greens, or spinach, turnips and polenta with turnip-top pesto and a rich jus. · Megan Linard

FEELING THIRSTY? A poetic selection of local nectars, available with or without alcohol: kir made with a homemade citrus-tonka bean syrup (€6 a glass), Médithévin floral lemonade (€4.50 for 330 ml)… Otherwise, there’s Hanami, a saumur-champigny from Bobinet (€32 a bottle) or an apremont from the Domaine des 13 Lunes (€38).

PRICE: Set menu €30 (meat or vegetarian).