Witching hour… at lunch? In the thick of Cours Julien neighborhood, the ultimate crossroads of cool culinary cross-pollination, Michaël Teixeira (ex-co-owner of Santo in Avignon, boss of Otto) has picked and pecked here and there, somewhere between Thailand and China, to hatch a curious little bird, generously sauced with XO. Two adjoining monochrome rooms in appetizing plum and orange-pineapple hues, wooden tables dressed in crisp white tablecloths, vintage Chinese tableware… and a menu forged alongside pop-upping chef Shan Rachel Jiang (already tasted at Sobremesa in Paris), furiously fusing here and elsewhere. That lunchtime: sizzling sautéed Sichuan pepper razor clams, slathered in a saucy mix of soy, nuoc mam and Thai basil; tender Cantonese-style beef chuck in rich shacha sauce, with roasted daikon and juicy eryngii mushrooms, coiffed with delicate leek fronds; and finally tang yuan – two glutinous rice balls hiding a peanut praline and salted caramel center, bobbing in summer berry juice. Hunger has met its match. · Omar Ciboulette

FEELING THIRSTY? A thoughtful edit of lively wines: a red blend by Émilie and Brice Bolognini in the Gard region (€6.50 a glass), a morgon from Famille Morin (€42 a bottle), a saint-pourçain from Tisserand (€36) and a complimentary mid-meal shot of tequila with lime, roasted chilies, coriander and honey.

PRICE: Dish of the day €17 (Wednesday to Saturday lunch), à la carte €38-51.