Chez Mamane

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Best broth Guide 2013

This couscous joint is a Butte-aux-Cailles institution! It’s hard to believe but Taibi Abderrahmane has been nourishing the neighborhood with his semolina and broth for 25 years now! And although he’s now handed the reins down to his son Fawzi, nothing has changed: the crowd of regulars still rushes in every night, overflowing onto the sidewalk; the Miss.Tic graffiti-coated walls are still there; the big tables are still topped with waxed tablecloths; the grains are still as finely milled, the vegetable broth is just as fine too, and the merguez, chicken, leg of lamb or skewered meats are still present – along with the couscous royal, for all those with big appetites! Not to mention the honest North African pastries from Le P’tit Souk for dessert. And for the user’s guide: though the house doesn’t take reservations, you can still call them to get yourself on the waitlist… We still haven’t figured out the difference, but it’s worth it, especially on weekends. // M.Z.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s craft beer from La Barge (€4 for a half-pint), a classic Boulaouane (€3 a glass) or a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Château Pas du Cerf (€17 a bottle).

PRICE: Couscous €9-18, pastries €2.

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