With its white walls, grey paneling and tablecloths, the décor at Kigawa clearly isn’t the most Instagrammable… But it doesn’t matter, since the cuisine from Michihiro Kigawa pleases everyone! As a specialist in French feasts, this aesthete chef serves fare that reflects the seasons. The night we went, on the €47 menu: a refreshing yellow tomato gazpacho with crabmeat; perfectly prepared wild pollack with roasted eggplant; and to finish the meal, an incredible warm soufflé with passion fruit and vanilla ice cream, made by the skilled pastry chef Junko, who’s also Michihiro’s wife. Not to mention the mignardises, that’ll have you weak in the knees: fruit jellies, miniature meringues and yuzu macarons. To drink, there’s a wine list that can hold its own against this cuisine d’auteur: a Montlouis-sur-Loire from the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups (€9 a glass), a Côtes-de-Nuits-Villages from the Maison Lou Dumont (€13), a Crozes-Hermitage from Equis (€49 a bottle), a Chablis-premier-cru, Vaillons, from the Domaine Servin (€69). Menus €35-39 (lunch), €47, €65, €80 and €110 (dinner). // M.Z.