Liquide? This is one solid spot! A semi-finalist in the 2021 season of France’s Top Chef, Jura-native Matthias Marc – who already runs thing at Substance – is continuing his Right Bank ascent with this rather hastily pulled-together spot: banquettes covered in fake fur, antler-shaped light fixtures, a taxi-yellow neon sign…. He poached his friend from culinary school Jarvis Scott (ex-Arpège in Paris and Tickets in Barcelona) as head chef, who sent out an ultra-precise set menu from his show-stopping kitchen the day we went for lunch: sensational flame-charred mackerel fillet, pickled cucumbers with Timut pepper and fresh dill; a gigantic pork chop with whole roasted carrots and jus, served with Poujauran bread for wiping the plate clean; before a plump rice pudding flavored with sweet clover, served with cherries and cherry sorbet. Other culinary delights ordered à la carte: peas nestled amongst raw cream with grated horseradish and elderberry blossoms; plus a libidinous slice of smoked eel wrapped in foie gras. // Antoine Antoine

FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful Jura wines (Labet, Morel, TIssot…), and much more: Brézé, a 2015 Saumur blanc from Guiberteau (€85 a bottle), a Troisième Feuille lager from Guillaume Overnoy (€6 for 330 ml), homemade kombucha (€7 for 500 ml)…

PRICE: Menus €26-29 (lunch), à la carte €45-69.